The remarkable Fuzeblock has these great features:
*** Easy to install
*** Built-In relay
*** Thick circuit board
*** Compact Size
*** No crimping
*** Ground Bus
*** 6 fused circuits
*** Power selection
*** Power protection
*** Spare fuse holders
*** Mini (ATM) Fuzes
*** Weather resistant
*** Markable Label
*** 95-5VA ABS Cover
*** Mounting options
Measures:
L 3.25 x W 2.5 x H 1.25
***CanBus compatible***
Fuzeblocks Inc. has designed a fuse block that is easy to install, fits into a small space and provides a built in relay which offers the choice for any device to be switched on and off automatically with the vehicle or be powered constantly.
The FZ-1 installation requires no crimping and all connections are made by heavy duty screw terminals that can accomodate up to 12 AWG wiring. All the FZ-1 needs is +12VDC, ground and a switched trigger to make it fully functional. Then connect devices to the FZ-1 selecting constant or switched power for each device. The unique board layout provides six individually fused circuits that can each supply constant or switched power depending on your needs. Check out all the features the FZ-1 has to offer and we think you'll agree that it makes easy work of wiring aftermarket accessories on your vehicle.
Normally to have switched and constant power, for your motorcycle accessories, requires two fuze blocks. One is wired directly to the battery for constant power and the second fuse block is wired through a relay battery for switched power. The FZ-1 eliminates the need to wire two seperate fuse blocks by providing both types of power in one unit. It reduces the wiring by more than half and allows you to select what type of power you want for each output. The FZ-1 is easier to install, reduces the amount of wiring time required and does it in a neat little package. The unit is great for experts who want to simplfy their install and for novices who are electrically challenged.
INSTALLATION
The FZ-1 one was designed to make installation simple and quick. The FZ-1 uses screw terminals for all its connections so that it requies no crimping to install. The installation is as simple as 1-2-3.
Connect battery power, ground and a switched source to the FZ-1 input terminal.
Connect your device's power and ground wires to the FZ-1 +12V output bus and ground bus terminals respectively.
Insert a fuse in the constant or switched power position for the output connected to your device. You're done. That's it. Ok, so maybe I condensed the installation a little but you get the idea.
You can download the installation document in PDF format.
WIRING TIPS AND OTHER INFORMATION:
How much power do I have?
Before mounting accessories you have to understand how much power your bike's alternator produces and how much of that power is available for you to use. Every bike produces a different amount of power and each bike needs a certain amount of that power to run the bike. Once you subtract the amount of power needed to operate the bike from the total amount of power produced you'll have the maximum amount of power available for accessories. You can usually find out how much power is available for a specific motorcycle by checking online forums having to deal with that bike. Some manufacturers will release this information but often they only give the maximum power generated and not the amount consumed by the motorcycle's operation.
Manufacturer's may give this in amps instead of watts. Amps is the measure of current and watts is the measure of power. Current is the movement of electrons like water moving through a pipe. Power is like electrical pressure or how much energy can be produced by pushing water through the pipe. Volts, amps, and watts are all linearly related and easy to calculate. If you have two of the three you can calculate the other. Since the voltage is usually +12V you can calculate watts from a amps. Watts is volts times amps. This means that if your alternator produces 60 Amps then it can produce (12V*60A) 720 watts (Power/Current Calculator). If you then subtract how much the bike consumes you'll have the number of watts you can use for your accessories.
How much power can I realistically use?
Once you know how much power that is available for use you'll need to figure out how much power your accessories consume. Most devices will specify the maximum wattage the device uses or the maximum current the device will draw. If the device gives a current just multiply the current value times 12 volts to get the power of that device. Once you have calculated the maximum power consumption of all of your devices compare that to what you have available on your bike (Power/Current Calculator).
Wiring knowledge and background
When wiring your bike it's important to know what options are available to do the wiring. Knowing what wiring and connectors to use is important. Other things to consider are how to protect against the weather, vibration and abrasion. Making sure that you pick a wire that is capable of handling the maximum amount of current you are going to be using. A multi-stranded wire is the best to use in these types of application instead of a solid core wire which is used in household construction. Multi-stranded wire is more flexible, can be routed easily and handles vibration better than solid core wiring.
The gauge of wire used depends on the amount of current it needs to handle. The gauge number is opposite of the size of wire though meaning the bigger the wire the smaller the gauge. It makes sense that the bigger wire can handle more current so wiring your fuseblock, lights and heated clothing should use a 12-14AWG wire and use 18-20AWG wiring for smaller devices like a GPS or radar detector. You don't want to push the limits of your wiring so always make sure to leave a little head room and play it conservative.
What exactly is a fuse?
Fuses are something that are commonly used but sometimes not really understood. Fuses are rated in amps. If you want to know what fuse to use with an accessory divide the maximum wattage of the device by the voltage of the bike to get the maximum amount of current the device will use under normal operation. If a device uses 6 watts then it can draw up to (6W/12V) .5 amps. You can then use this value to select a fuse for that device. Typically you are going to use a fuse that is slightly more than the maximum amount of current the device can pull. Since our device is normally capable of pulling .5 amps we can use a 1 or 2 amp fuse on that circuit. (Power/Current Calculator)
One myth about fuses is that the are made to protect the device. Although there is some truth to this it is largely untrue. A fuse only blows because something has happened to the circuit or device to cause it to pull more current than what it is rated for. In this case the fuse blows and disconnects the circuit protecting your power source from supplying too much current. In order for the fuse to blow the over rated current already has to be flowing through the circuit, and/or device which means the fuse isn't protecting it. The fuse protects the power source by disconnecting the faulty circuit. This works much the same way a circuit breaker work on a cheap power strip. It doesn't protect your TV. It protects your house from burning down by tripping the little breaker on the power strip.
When connecting a device to your bike you want to make sure that the fuse is located as close to the power source as possible. The reason for this is that you are decreasing the odds that a short will happen between the power source and the fuse. If your wiring shorts to ground (the frame, etc.) between the power source and the fuse then the fuse won't do any good. By only having a small amount of wire between the connection on the power source a
